October 2001 Baja back roads Adventure

Planned for September and delayed until October we finally headed south in the new Ford SuperDuty Diesel, outfitted with Rancho 9000 shocks and air bags to control the load and ride, the Callen shell was stuffed with enough food liquids and supplies to last 2 weeks. Before crossing the International border at Tecate Mexico we acquired our tourist Visas from Mexican Immigration, then headed south through the mountains and valleys (with wineries) to the seaside town of Ensenada. A quick stop for some Tequila to sip after dinner around the campfire, and we proceeded south on Highway 1 to our first night camp near historic Rancho Tres Enriques. Planned for September and delayed until October we finally headed south in the new Ford SuperDuty Diesel, outfitted with Rancho 9000 shocks and air bags to control the load and ride, the Callen shell was stuffed with enough food liquids and supplies to last 2 weeks. Before crossing the International border at Tecate Mexico we acquired our tourist Visas from Mexican Immigration, then headed south through the mountains and valleys (with wineries) to the seaside town of Ensenada. A quick stop for some Tequila to sip after dinner around the campfire, and we proceeded south on Highway 1 to our first night camp near historic Rancho Tres Enriques. Next morning, heading south we saw lots of purple wildflowers along the road, finally my curiosity got me and my camera out of the truck in the Cataviña rock gardens area. These bushes, some of them 6' tall were everywhere and a seldom seen beauty. Rains from hurricane Julliette a month ago have turned the desert green and wildflowers are sprouting everywhere.

With our early start on day 2 we turned off hwy 1 at Santa Rosalalita, found the new pavement extended only about 3 miles and we promptly headed into the sand wash which leads to the sea and village, a smoother and much more scenic drive than the rough graded washboard. Friendly waves from everyone as we passed through town made us feel very welcome. We headed west towards San Jose de Las Palomas and Punta Cono, Pacific coast beaches. We took our usual shortcuts and back roads and were disappointed to find the soft sand 2 track road we used to travel north had been graded (bulldozed) into a deep silt laden, very dusty bad road. After what seemed like hours we arrived at our intended campsite only to find the new road passed within feet and headed north to find somewhere new. We liked the spot in the photo on the right so we spent 2 nights.	When we found this spot Deloris said something like "can we build a house here?"
	A rough drive north to our favorite beach camp took half the day. While we were setting up camp the friendly fishermen waved and I optimistically waved back hoping for some lobster for dinner, this happened on and off for three days and we never did get our lobster. Good weather but no fish so we hiked each day and just soaked up the great days on the beach.
Our uncertainty about fuel economy sent us south on hwy 1 to refuel before heading north to the Sea of Cortes. Our first stop found a station without diesel but led to an introduction to a lady known as "La Famosa Carmelita", she has been selling fresh, hot tamales for years out of an old van. She ran over to us and explained diesel was available just north of Guerrero Negro and we headed south another hour. A new modern Pemex is located on the east side of the hwy. just north of the Baja Sur border saving us the hassle of an ag. inspection and probable confiscation of our fruits and veggies. On our way north we stopped and bought some of the yummy tamales and paid Carmelita for the food AND good advice. By late afternoon we were sipping Margaritas at La Gringa beach with our nearest neighbor a mile away. We enjoyed two of the most perfect days and nights here, full moons, not too hot, no wind. Clamming for butter clams, hiking and fishing the shore used up our time much to soon.

As we prepared to leave the bay we toured the village and marveled at all the new grocery stores, ice outlets, liquor stores and a new hotel, yet they have not had a gas station for 5 years. We found another 5 gallons of diesel pumped from a barrel and picked up a bag of ice for the gallon of clams in my cooler. When we exited the pavement and headed for Bahia Gonzaga and San Felipe we found the road so wash boarded it was impossible to drive much more than a few MPH. As we headed north some sections were better than others so we picked up some time only to have to make a stop for repairs on the back door latch on the camper. When the doors opened we drove about a half mile before I noticed, its a wonder we only lost a pair of shoes. With no traffic I was able to back up the half mile and retrieve the shoes. We stopped at Rancho Grande to stave off thirst with a couple of Pacifico's and chat with some of the other gringo travelers.	One of the fellows I talked with at Rancho Grande drove a Sportsmobile 4X4 Ford van, we had seen these at the recent Pomona RV show. I think I need to save for one of these!!
	Bugs brought on by the hurricane rains kept us off the beaches between Gonzaga and San Felipe, so an overnight camp South of Puertecitos in the desert spared us from the little biters. Two days early we headed for home satisfied for a while, with new Baja memories under our sombrero and determined to return after the holidays for more back road adventure.
Breakfast at George's in San Felipe and we headed for the Mexicali east border crossing. Light traffic and a twenty minute wait found us in the USA around 3 PM, home about four hours later.