Whew.. I'll bet that's 45% of the questions I get. OK, the easiest way (but not most accurate) is to look at the position of the anal opening. If it's close to the plastron, usually before the edge of the shell, it's 'probably' a female. If the opening is further down the tail, usually past the shell's edge, it's a male. The technique can be indeterminate, but it's the most simple method and it's reasonably accurate. If anyone else out there knows any other easy (i.e. not probes) methods, let me know and I'll post it here.

A big question during the summer. It usually takes snapper eggs 9-18 weeks to hatch. This depends a lot on the climate. If it's a dry or cool season, the eggs will be closer to the longer range.

Another big summer question. I've never hatched snapping turtle eggs before so I can only pass on what I've read. The internal nest temperature determines the sex of the hatchlings. Slightly lower that 89F produces males, slightly higher produces some males and some females. The nest should be moist but not wet. If the nest it too wet, the eggs will rot. I've read to use sand to keep the nest moist. Make sure the container that holds the sand has holes in the bottom to allow sufficient drainage. If anyone has more info on this subject, let me know. Here's a link to some good info on the subject: How to Hatch Snapper Eggs

Snapping turtles raised in captivity rarely bite out of aggression or fear. Exceptions to this can be if you surprise the turtle or when you clean it. The major reason people with captive breed snappers get bitten is because the turtle mistakes them for food. As your turtle gets to know you and becomes less and less afraid of you (no it still doesn't like you so quit fooling yourself), it stops seeing you as something that's going to eat it. It begins to see you as 'food source #1.' It knows it only gets food when you visit, so every time you come near, it looks for food. Snapping turtles see no difference in your finger and that piece of chicken it loves, so be careful.

This is a different story with wild adult turtles. They can be very aggressive out of water, especially if cornered. So just because your pet snapper at home lets you scratch its head, that doesn't mean that the moss covered behemoth on the river bank will do the same.

:P

First, make sure your turtle sees you so you don't surprise it. Pick the turtle up by holding both sides of the shell, with your thumbs on the top of the shell and fingers under the turtle. Keep your hands as far back as possible and avoid letting the turtle get its back claws between your hand and its shell. This can be avoided by pushing slightly on the top of the turtle's legs with the side of your hand. Handle your turtle with smooth actions to avoid scaring it. Your turtle may flail its head around but it can't bite you if you use this technique. So don't freak out and throw it across the room if its head touches your hand. If your turtle is buck-wild, you can place a damp towel over it before you pick it up. Never, ever, ever, never pick a turtle up by its tail. Doing so can cause serious injuries that can lead to death. A turtle's tail is an extension of the its spine, and just like most people don't like to be carried around by their necks, most turtles don't like to be lifted by their tails.

-blink- Uh.. OK, sure....

I like answering questions and all but I'm not constantly checking my mail and I do have other things that I like to do so don't put yourself in a situation where your future depends on my speedy response. I'll try to get back to you as soon as possible, but it usually takes a few days. Most of the info should be on the page somewhere, so look first and if you can't find it, then send me mail, but at least look.