inside of the frame a good polish. It takes a while, but not half as long

as cleaning the rouge out of the nooks and crannies later. Prepare your

finest curses.

Once again we take up our sandpaper and our very macho

knife as we prepare to work the hammer itself. You need

only hit the round of the base, not the complete side. Again

we are only smoothing bumps, not flattening.

The better the polish, the smoother the action, the lighter you can

make your mainspring. If the action is smooth enough, it will take

very little spring weight to get the same momentum. Some will argue

that this removes hardening from the sides, to which I respond simply-

Waaaaah! It's really not important. It's more important where the

hammer strikes the cap, and we're not touching that.

Here we remove a little material from the lowest notch on the

front of the hammer. This will eliminate trigger creep. Go

incrementally. If you remove too much the gun will not stay

in full cock mode and will be unsafe. Leave the upper notch

be. That is half cock, nothing you are concerned with.

segemnt of the project- the mainspring. To access this, remove the screw

at the bottom of the grip. This will allow you to slide the trigger guard

forward and out of the grip.

The mainspring is the steel strap screwed on to the back of the piece

you just removed. Unscrew (this can take some doing, it's strapped

on rather tight) and remove the spring so we can begin our work.

material from both sides of the spring. Leave the head and foot at the

original width. We like those the way they are. The more material you

remove, the lighter the weight, so try not to go so far that your caps or

primers will not combust reliably.

The finished product. The sides are well taperd and the head is

Somewhat diamond shaped. This is a very light mainspring.

Note the dainty feminine grip. This is to offset the macho knife

and once again restore balance to the universe. Now

reassemble your firearm, and happy hunting.